Ever the showman, Joshua Kane’s AW16 show was held in a venue worthy of his theatrics. Christ Church, Spitalfields lords over the hipsters of Shoreditch – the only building impervious to their artisan coffee, £4 bowl of imported cereal, gentrification. Kane’s tailoring is impervious to time too; his dandy aesthetic perfectly suited to an area where a few doors down people are still sipping pints where Jack the Ripper used to drink.
One thousand guests – a cocktail of celebrities, musicians and editors – filled row upon row, balcony alongside balcony, in the triple height room. The chandeliers were dimmed, bright light flooded in through the closed wrought iron doors at the beginning of the runway. The Don of Detail, Kane’s monogram was carved into each door flinging branded shadows down the catwalk.
The lights come up; two impeccably dressed models appear and open the doors in sync. In the wings English rock band We are the Ocean’s singer starts to howl, his melancholy voice building and building until the band join in and the models appear marching to their beat. This season saw Joshua’s eye for detail be turned to adaptability, amongst his trademark heavy jacquards and velvets came leather jackets suited to the musicians he had modelling them. His signature gold hardware adorned the cuffs and body; allowing sleeves to be shortened, jackets to be cropped. Embroidered black and white prints splashed across blazers and cuffs appeared almost toile-like; fans will be begging for wallpaper I think Joshua.
The brand, which until now had included bags and sunglasses, has expanded into a collection of footwear entitled ‘The Tailor’. Handmade and available in three colourways, you’ll need a pair to wear with the suit you’d better order fast. The edgy tailor is on his way to the mainstream, and you’re going to want to get swept up by the current.